Merhaba!
I found myself impromptu running off to Istanbul, Turkey, with my girlfriend Sarah. Sarah had business (shopping) to do and wanted a travel partner. That one was a no-brainer! The time flew and emotions were intense, so much so hat an E-mail was not even an option. First, I do have to say that for once I was speechless...I don't even know how to begin to describe what happened to me here but something touched my soul!
As evening settled on my first day in Istanbul, I stood out on the balcony overlooking the Aya Sofya Mosque and the Blue Mosque. With a slight chill in the air, I wrapped myself in a blanket and found myself mesmerized by the magical site of the domed architectural marvels with minarets reaching to the highest of heavens. In the distance I could hear the faint melodic sounds of the 'EZAN' (the Muslim "Call to Prayer"). Starting on the Asia side of the Bosphorus, the 'Ezan' traveled from mosque to mosque ebbing its way to me. I closed my eyes and as the 'Ezan' emanated from the Blue Mosque tears started to flow and a heavy weight settled in my chest. A flock of seagulls spiraled over the mosque in the darkness of the night illuminated by the lights that were showcasing the eight minarets. It was as if they were in a Cosmic Dance, riding on the skirts of whirling Dervishes. What more can I say?
Morning came with 'Ezan' seeping into my dreams (it calls 5 times a day). Finding my way up to the terrace restaurant, I started my day with a typical Turkish breakfast which consisted of fresh feta cheese, mild cheeses, tomatoes, cucumbers, green olives, black olives, yogurt, hard boiled eggs, and tea. I will explain later but tea plays a huge part in the Turkish social life. Looking out over the city I anticipate what the day might bring. Wow... I've only touched on less that the first 24 hours, but they had to have been the most intense hours of my whole journey!
iyi aksamlar (Good Evening),
I'm still having a bit of a challenge getting back to reality returning from Turkiye, so in my mind the best medicine is sharing.
Sarah surprised me with a quick trip to see her friend Asli on the southern Aegean Coast. As with Sarah, I loved this sweetheart the minute I met her...open heart, open mind, and a loving spirit! With our quick touch down in Istanbul we were off to Izmir and the then off to Kusadasi, Asli's home, a popular cruise port town. The evening was filled with girlfriends, a little wine, tea, a wonderful dinner, belly dancing, snacks and a lot of giggles (it's a girl thing!).
After visiting the local market the next morning, Sarah and I were treated to a relaxing morning sitting in the sunshine overlooking the orchards of Asli's family farm, sipping fresh pomegranate-tangerine juice, enjoying another delicious Turkish breakfast.
Ahu, who we met the night before, was our personal guide for the day, taking us to Ephesus and the house of the Virgin Mary. This was quite an emotional day! At the house of the Virgin Mary I lit a candle for my girlfriend Connie who is living with ALS. We then strolled the ancient streets of Ephesus, a city that was honored by the presence of Anthony and Cleopatra and was a major port town in ancient times. The Library's facade stands as majestic as it had in it's day and the wear marks from the chariots made me shiver as I ran my fingers over the smooth marble streets.
As the day wore on we made our way to Sirince, a little mountain village. Known for it's fruit wines and olive oil. It like so many "gems" is becoming a victim of tourism. The evening was once again filled with a beautiful family dinner at Asli's. Communication issues were never a real problem as we resorted to pictionary and charades. (So much we can learn from children)!
The journey continues:
Catching a morning flight after our visit with Asli in Kusadasi, Sarah and I were back in Istanbul rendezvousing with her friend Bulent who was determined treat us to the full Turkish experience. After enjoying tea at the hotel we bundled up and made our way to the Grand Bazaar just down the street. Before tackling the masses we stopped in an outdoor Tea Garden and Water Pipe Cafe in a Cemetery surrounding a Mosque. They must be really hard pressed for space but I have to admit being surrounded by grave stones has an odd calming affect. Add the sight of women covered from head to toe in their traditional black coats and scarves and solitary gentlemen lounging about, all smoking fruit flavored tobaccos in nargilehs (hookah or traditional water pipe), you'd have to wonder if this could be the next fad in Berkeley!
Arm in arm the three of us wove in and out of the throngs of people in the Grand Bazaar, a covered market centuries old housing 4000 shops lining 7 kilometers of lanes. Lamps, belly dance costumes, textiles, brass, souvenirs and so much more. As we settled into a workshop to do some buying and visiting, tea was summoned as is common place for the Turkish welcoming their guests. This took place with Sarah's "Copper Man", a lovable vendor she befriended on her previous ventures. Not to rush, things are done differently here, we sat through two glasses of tea. Did I mention they drink mass quantities of tea here? It's served very hot in a little 4oz glass placed on a little saucer with 2 sugar cubes and the daintiest of spoons. It's just a way of life that seems to be their life blood in the social scheme of things. By now I was so wired with caffeine that I wanted to jump out of my skin. Time to go as we pushed our way though the back streets where the locals shop, making our way to the Spice Market taking in the aromas of exotic spices, sampling pistachios and Turkish Delights.
We ended the day eating mezes (shared dishes)with kebabs at a Kebab House in Taksim (a "Hip" place for the locals on a Saturday night), strolling the festive pedestrian main street, dancing folk dances and enjoying listening to Raki induced singing at a local cafe.
Morning came all to soon and I ventured out early on my own wanting to photograph the Topkapi Palace and the Aya Sofya hopefully unobstructed by people. The Harem was my favorite and the Mosque was just as majestic on the inside as it was on the outside. Taking an audio tour as I captured my images, the music swept me back to the days of the Ottoman with powerful Sultans surrounded by their many wives, concubines and Eunuchs. If only the walls could talk of the secret world contained within the walls of this massive ornate Harem.
I finished my romping around by dropping down into the Basilica Cistern, an underground water storage facility built in AD 532 for the Byzantine emperors' great palace. Wow! Columns and arches taken from ancient ruins create an erie underground world partially submerged in water. Even fish can be spotted darting around the columns oblivious to the crowds walking above them.
Once again wishing everyone happiness and good health. II find it hard to put into words the emotions that came flooding in on my last day and a half in Istanbul. My senses have been on overload and as Sarah would put it: "I'm all filled up"! After the marathon morning catching all the sights in a half mile radius, the pace slowed down to where I could regain my thoughts and relax. Out on the roof top terrace overlooking the city in the midday light, the city bursting with domes and minarets still managed to retained it's mystic charm and once again I could not hold back the tears as the "Ezan" made it's way across the city back to me. The afternoon was a treat walking the Galata Bridge to reach the Galata Tower to watch the sun set over Istanbul.
Evening fell quick as Sarah and I found our way to the old train station to witness the Mevlevi performing their sema (they are the whirling dervishes). I was mesmerized by the chanting, music, and the trance like state these men succumb to. Gracefully with heads tilted back, eyes closed, arms open to the heavens, they spin, and spin, and spin, and spin. Their white robes float effortlessly around the room like spinning tops. Truly a beautiful sight!
On our last day Sarah and I started the day by visiting the Cagaloglu Hamami (a three hundred year old Turkish bath). "A must do!"...Rinsing your cares away as a beefy Turkish woman scoures you down (I lost three layers of skin), soaps you up, manhandle massages you with oils as you slide across the heated marble slab only to be caught by your ankle and slid back to her side (as Sarah put it "I feel like I'm on an air hockey table!"), ending with a drowning as you blow bubbles and gasp for air while she is washing your hair. This was the closest I have ever been to heaven. We left the Hamami looking like two drown rats with the biggest smiles on our faces as we stumbled down the street as if we were drunk. It probably wasn't the greatest idea to do this first thing in the morning but hey, you do what you got to.
With such little time left, shopping was a "must do" so it was back to the Grand Bazaar in the afternoon. Did I mention with lots of tea?! We did manage to have a wonderful dinner thanking Bulent for all that he did for us. Wonderful wine, great food and special friends, the night was filled with laughter, giggles and memories.
So I managed to see the majestic mosques of Istanbul, roam the ancient ruins of Ephesus, lose myself in the Harem of the Topkapi Palace, shop the Grand Bazaar, luxuriate in the Cagaloglu Hamami, forge new friendships, and last but not least fall in love with Turkey. The "Ezan" will aways be in my heart taking me back to this magical place.
Thank you for letting me share this incredible experience! Until my next adventure, Good night! Love, Sharon
