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about me
There’s a story in my family. It’s about me and a pair of purple swimming trunks. They were bought at Target, made of polyester and knit tight to stay snug on an 8-year old’s skinny hips.
And stay they did. For one entire summer, Memorial Day through Labor Day, those purple trunks were my sole undergarment. To the best of my, or anyone else’s recollection, I never took them off. And why should I? Our family spent part of nearly every day on the small Ozark river that bordered our farm. In the morning we fished; in the evening we barbecued and in the hours between no tadpole was safe. Whether skipping stones, diving off logs or doing spectacular parabolic exits from a rope swing, wet was the only way to stay during humid Midwestern summers. A boy had to be committed to his swim shorts. It was natural to start exploring creeks and canyons when I moved to California as an adult. And explore is the right word. Traveling up wild waterways often produced startling discoveries. Swimming holes are physical enclosures. When you hike up a mountain, the peak is always evident. But swimming holes sneak up on you. Turn a corner and you discover some glorious piece of liquid jade surrounded by alders. The arcade of trees that so often tops rock walls lends a feeling of privacy. It’s the outdoors’ indoors and perhaps why stories of love recurred so often when I asked people for swimming hole anecdotes. Mountain panoramas turn a mind outward while the enclosing comfort of a canyon turns thoughts inward. Rather than stretch out your arms you want to wrap them around something. Oddly enough, it’s not the water that makes a swimming hole great; it’s the rock. The best ones have an architectural quality. Southern California has superb sandstone bowls built like a Roman forum. There are dark metamorphic pools in the Mendocino National Forest that have the feel of a private bath house. The Sierras have classic granite holes containing so many water-worn shapes, it’s like walking through a garden of abstract sculpture. Locating the swimming holes featured in Splash wasn’t always as much fun as it might sound. I exchanged a cozy apartment on the beach and a cushy job as a staff writer for the Los Angeles Times for life in the back of a Toyota truck. After installing the fiberglass shell, I measured the bed of the truck. Six feet. I'm 5'11" and seven eights. That was 300,000 miles ago. Even from the first mile, I started finding people having fun. And it hit me. Most guide books are too reverent. A weekend outdoors can be a spiritual experience without sounding like a trip to church. It’s supposed to be fun. Swimming holes are FUN. The sun starts getting hot, the laundry comes off, and instead of quoting John Muir you’re doing cannonballs into a cauldron of emerald water. I’d even argue that swimming holes are the most complete trip to the mountains. Hiking alone isn’t. There is always space between the hiker and the trees, always a separation between us and the ground we travel over. But water touches every part of the body with the perfect contact of immersion. Think of the stream as the work week, all noise and repeated motion. The swimming hole is the weekend, a place where the pace slackens, the current gets broader and the water grows quiet enough to show a reflection.
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August 7, 2004
Sat, August 12, 2006 - 11:20 AM
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Springville, Ca Naked movie stars. Two of them. They were sprawled next to a classic swimming hole I showed them shortly after they phoned, asking me to lead a brief trip. Just about anyone would recognize their names or faces. Now, from where I stood a short distance away, I could recognize a whole lot more. The one with the hit television series commented on an earlier cliff jump. “That was one of the top ten — no, top five experiences of my life.” No compar... read more
October 5, 2002
Sat, August 12, 2006 - 11:18 AM
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Charlotte, NC They started as simple hostages. The initial assault had failed and it was clear that these two helpless creatures would be needed to bait an ambush. By 1 AM the Howard Johnson closed and I pulled around back, parked and placed them in restraints on the floor while I crouched in the seat and got comfortable for the evening. By morning, nothing. The situation was stalemated: one dead, one missing, two in custody. Peromyscata. These were the subjects. ... read more
September 23,2000
Sat, August 12, 2006 - 11:17 AM
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Knocker’s Hole, NH It’s September in New England and I have my shirt off. There’s high pressure over the basin and fair weather clouds in the mountains. Difficult to believe that autumn happened two days ago. I’m driving with one hand on the wheel and the other searching for the classical station. I find it then point my free hand out the window and let it porpoise up and down to a Puccini melody. I haven’t bathed in a week. I’d have showered in Millinocket, but I h... read more
November 15, 2001
Sat, August 12, 2006 - 11:16 AM
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Morgantown, WV Let the record show that the last photo for swimming holes of the Northeast was taken yesterday at 3:02 PM Eastern Standard Time. It fell on a warm, bright day near the cross quarter, a place on the calendar between the equinox and the solstice. It fell near the geographic midpoint of the coverage area. It fell at the end of nine months and 19,000 miles of travel. It fell in a dump. Big Sandy Creek has a gorgeous fall about one mile above its conf... read more
November 12, 2002
Sat, August 12, 2006 - 10:56 AM
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Clayton, GA The annual Halloween bash ends the paddling season on the Chattooga River. Guides close shop before the big party and on November 1, when the Jaegermeister wears off, Clayton contracts to year-round residents and summer is over. That same morning NOAA weather radio issued a forecast heavy as any hangover from The Jaeg. "The National Weather Service is issuing a frost and freeze warning. Widespread frost and freezing temperatures are expected througho... read more
August 28, 2004
Sat, August 12, 2006 - 10:35 AM
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Humptulips, WA Hike the Olympic Peninsula on almost any day and you will walk in the rain. In some spots the deep evergreen and thick moss blanketing the western tip of the continental U.S. even qualifies as a rain forest. Years earlier I discovered this during three weeks, after which fungus or mildew covered most every part of my person and possessions. This year was different, hot and dry. From the central massif of Olympic National Park, water eased into clear r... read more
April 16, 2002
Sat, August 12, 2006 - 10:30 AM
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Nevada City, Ca. A couple of days ago, I was holed up by a wood stove at my Snuggle Bunny's place outside of Santa Fe. The high desert had several inches of wet snow. The pinyon and juniper trees were loaded and the air outside was silent. It was quiet inside, too. I was there alone since the Snuggle Bunny was in Laguna Beach with her new lover. She had phoned with the news before I left St. Louis. "We haven't been together in six months," she reminded me. "I know we ha... read more
Hoodsport, WA
Sat, August 12, 2006 - 10:13 AM
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They were three high school cheerleaders from Seattle. Two days earlier I filled a couple of rolls of Fujichrome photographing them jumping at a great spot on the south fork of the Skokomish River. They and some friends agreed to spend part of Memorial Day doing more photos at a place 30 minutes farther up the Olympic Peninsula on the Duckabush River. The best shot would be angling up at the leaping figures from a rappel position 15 feet down the sheer rock face. Ea... read more
Secluded waterfalls, remote two-person tubs, hidden pools, all of them in creeks and rivers less than three hours from the trailhead.
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