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Thanks!

I love Bali. I’ll admit it, I was having a hard time before because it’s out of my budget to do the things I really want to do here but, I love it.

I went to the supermarket and at the check out there is a sign that says: please excuse us for exchanging your change with candy". I thought this was a joke, every time I saw it I laughed. One day, I paid with cash instead of a card, low and behold instead of coins I got candy! I laughed and a man next in line said that in South America they do that with stamps from the post. I asked if it would be ok to pay for my food with candy :)

I’m staying here in Raja Gardens right near the beach and it really is great. I take taksi around and I have friends with motor bikes so if I need to go somewhere it’s just a short trip.

Originally I had come here for a visa run for Thailand. Seems silly right, to go to a major tourist area, a prime vacation place for a visa run? I have always heard great things about Bali, the stunning beauty, the myriad of activities and the great weather. The only thing I did not account for is all of that = expensive, for this traveler anyway.

At first I was a bit discouraged and wasn’t really feelin it. In fact, I felt like I had wasted my time and money and was planning a trip home, if you can believe that. Then I met some cool people and my perspective changed. After that I began trying varying approaches to my perspective and jumped head first into my goals of SCUBA and enjoying relaxation without distraction. Things began to look different and I started to see Bali for it’s potential and it’s beauty as a destination. Expense aside it is a really rich place to be.

My visa experience here was unbelievable! I had read various places that a Thai visa run to Denpesar, Bali was a debacle waiting to unfold. This, however, was not my experience. I was originally told that I would need 8 days, 3 photos, 3 copies of my passport, and US$35 (not Rupiahs, not Baht but US$).

Somewhere along the way I lost my inspiration to get a visa and was nonplussed at the effort it took and was going to settle for a 30 day visa on arrival. I would renew if I felt the need, by going on a boarder run. But, because I got in touch with a friend from the states who is staying in Pai, I wanted to have the choice of staying longer so I called the Consulate. To my surprise, the time had been changed to a 2 day turnaround which meant I could still get one after all my procrastinating.

I got all my things together and headed up to 81 Jalan Puputan, Renon. It’s roughly a 45 minute taksi ride costing around $8. When I got there he informed me Thailand was giving 90 day visas for free! This was so lucky for me! The only thing is that I needed an air ticket out of Thailand to be able to get a visa. This was a mild inconvenience. I hoofed it around the corner, logged on and purchased a cheap ticket through Air Asia to Phnom Pen 89 days from my arrival. This way, if I change my mind, Air Asia goes so many places I can just exchange my ticket and pay a $17 change fee. All together the ticket cost me around US$60, not a bad deal.

I returned to the consulate and handed everything over. It was a strange feeling to hand over my passport for 2 days. Thankfully I have a scanned copy in my email and I have several copies in various places, just in case I need it.

The next day it was up to Renon again to pick up my passport. Man, it was hot! I mean sticky, humid, needs to rain hot. The taksi I was in had less than working AC so I had him drop me and flagged another. This one had arctic air! Whew, thank the gods! It was cheaper too! It was actually a nice turn because the driver has great rates for around town and I have referred him to others already.

I got my passport back with the stamps and all, 90 day stay allowed, all went well for the visa run!

That night, I heard from Elijah in Nepal! Yay! I was getting really worried, he had said he would be traveling around remote Nepal to plant trees with the Universal Peace Organization. When I hadn’t heard from him - at all - I was a bit worried and called to him in meditation. I figured if I hadn’t heard from him by Mar 2nd I would call the consulate. Low and behold he emailed me that day. Everything is going better than fine, his project is taking off, and he is enjoying himself immensely. He wants me up there ASAP. So the only thing to do is figure logistics, have fun in Thailand for a while till it gets too hot, then head off to Katmandu.

Who knows, really, every time I think I know what’s around the corner, the path makes a loopty loop and I am headed in another direction. It’s more fun that way anyway.

I had originally said I wanted to go Thailand, Bali, New Zealand, maybe Australia, back to Thailand, Nepal, Turkey, Greece, Italy then Belize. That is a lot of countries and I have less money than I thought I would so my itinerary is being edited. I am not going to New Zealand or Australia at this time due to the price of air tickets. I am however doing really well at staying in my budget for everything else so I can continue on my merry way sans a trip down under. It’s ok, When I go, I want to be able to dive and trek which costs a pretty penny.

As of now, I am headed out to the beach to enjoy my last two days here in Bali.

After I wrote this I went to a place called Ku De Ta, it’s the swankiest place I have ever been, here’s what it was like for me…

The taksi pulled up to a driveway where there were guards with paper tablets, very effective for fighting crime. I walk up around the way to the stunning entrance, flanked with tall glass walls and a huge fountain in the center. As I walk up the stairs I am washed over by the aire of elegance.

This place is amazing, the epitome of contemporary Asian design; mix of mid century American and clean Asian angles. The place is U shaped with an open courtyard in the center; the walls are all glass, over looking the ocean, of course. The front, near the entrance is over sized mod wicker rocker chairs, they remind me of Beatlejuice for some reason. The large main area is open and clear fitted with large comfortable dining tables; there are many very, very rich people, dressed to the hilt, eating very expensive food.

I walk through, confident and happy, ignoring everything else but how damn lucky I am to be here. As I exit the dining area out into the courtyard, the breeze sweeps my body and I hear lovely down tempo jazz floating from a well tuned sound system. I walk slowly, my confidence wavering as I observe couples and friends lounging on large reclining bed like structures. I adjust my perspective and stroll out there, swaying my hips to the music.

One of the Bali Boy waiters comes over and greets me, asking if I am alone and if I would like to sit. At first I say "oh, no, I couldn’t, I mean, I don’t need, I mean…" I trail off into silence. He gestures over to the lounger in front, the one with the best view, and I suddenly say "yes! why not? OK." and I go over and get comfortable. Imagine a king size bed made into a luxurious deck chair with a reclining back and end tables on the arms, it’s very comfortable.

At first I sit up and look around then I decide I am going to enjoy every second of this no matter what else is going on around me. I scoot back and the waiter brings me a menu and I blurt out "I’ll just have a lemon juice" and he says "are you sure that’s all you want? We have a lot of very good non alcoholic drinks, have a look at the menu" So I take it and flip through and choose a fresh strawberry juice, my favorite drink as of late. He smiles and leaves.

I settle in and it hits me. Here I am lounging at this ultra swanky luxury joint just meters from the ocean beneath the constellations of the southern hemisphere, gratitude washes over me and I take a moment to pray. There are flood lights shining out to sea so you can see the surf break and the music is just loud enough to be heard over the water, a very nice mix, something I would play at home. I take a deep breath and relax back into the chaise. Just then the waiter brings the fresh strawberry juice. I think this is heaven.

I sip the juice and breathe deeply, every once and a while licking my lips to taste the salt from the surf. I place my glasses on my head and star gaze, man, this is the life. If I were rich I would do this every day. No wonder they have made this place, it’s absolutely wonderful.

I finish my drink and look around. I notice a couple hovering like vultures. I get the hint, I mean the chaise is meant for more than one. I gather my things and wander back through. I laugh out loud and make a face at the hostess, a face that says "ouwgh, I am sooooo rich and important" as I pass her we both crack up. As I leave I feel really glad I came and glad I left before it got to me.

Today I went to this fantastic spa called Jari Menari which, when translated, means dancing hands. They do it right! I ordered "The Perfect Massage" which is 90 minutes. All the therapists are male, which is a new thing for me, and it works just fine. Most healers in Balinese culture are men, I have met a few women but, for the most part they are male.

I got a locker and a sarong. I peeled off my clothes, moist from the high noon heat, and wrapped myself. The rooms are in a line and the back wall is a continuous fountain running the length of the spa with a Buddha statue in front of every room. The floors are teak and the roof woven palm with a ceiling fan over every room. Front walls are frosted glass with sliding doors and each room has a small table fitted with supplies. It is all very well done.

This is the second time I have been here and I fell asleep the last time too. It takes a skilled therapist to put me to sleep, let me tell you. This massage is said to be the best in Bali, I haven’t been to THAT many spas but I would almost agree on that point alone. The spa lives up to it’s name, as the massages are, from what I can assess, a mix of Thai, western, lomi lomi and Balinese traditional massages. Whatever he did, it was magic!

I met Bekah for the last time on this trip for lunch and the beach. We went to Queen’s Tandoor, a great Indian restaurant on the main road in Seminyak, they have locations in several Asian countries and they are really tasty! We had Palak Aloo, Malai Kofta, Garlic Nan, Basmati Rice and Mango Lassis, it was so good!

We then went to Kuta beach. It is very touristic, with rented loungers, surfer boys and tusk abound. The waves were great and the people watching was perfect. Bekah and I talked about Bali culture, which is always interesting because she is an ethnographer. I always gain amazing perspective running my observations past her. I learned a lot from her on this trip and there was talk of taking a trip together in the future.

I am at an Internet Outpost in Kuta uploading my photos to my Flickr account so you all can see some things. Remember my camera was stolen so the shots are what happened after all that.

www.flickr.com/photos/godstudent/sets/

Thanks for reading! I’ll post more pictures as soon as I get off Bali, the connection here is soooooo slow. I’m lucky I get to email and blog!

Much Love!

Hmmm... where did I leave off? Oh, yes, I remember now. I had met Bekah and gotten some recommendations, yes, I would check it out.

The next day I met a friend, Michael, who does reiki. I asked him about his practice and he invited me for lunch to talk it over. We met at a western style cafe and had some iced coffees. He asked me about my near death experience and of my practice of healing. He had some really interesting things to say about what I do and I really appreciated the insight. He asked me some questions and said I needed to make a decision about attuning (the process of getting initiated in reiki level 1) . He explained the proper way to initiate was to get attuned, practice a year, got to level 2 then practice another year and then go to level 3 because only then can the soul body be ready for that stage of healing others. It takes a good while to get into the groove of light work. I completely agree.

He asked if I like art. Of course I love art. He invited me to his house to see art. Wow, his house is amazing! One of the walls is the entire height of the house and the upstairs is lofted so the wall is completely exposed to all other parts of the house. He had several large pieces there and many more around the house. He also has a gallery shop in front of his house in which he shows his pieces along with a Balinese sculptor who seems to make alive the spirit of the wood he carves. It was all so delightful! I really enjoy Michael's work, it's completely uninhibited and really has a sense of movement and light about it.

It was very hot that day so we went for a swim in his pool. He described how he uses floating as a form of meditation and grounding. It was a great time and I was happy to connect with another healer and talk shop. We made arrangements for a trade so we would understand better the work each other does.

I came back a couple of days later and we traded healing. I gave body and he gave reiki. It was a great exchange and I have felt a lot more buoyant since. He suggested that I wait to be attuned and that I follow my heart when choosing a teacher. He would be gad to attune me if only we had 3 more people for a class because the master cannot properly teach unless the students have someone upon whom to practice and another student to bounce feedback off of while they too are practicing. he said it makes for more effective learning.

I really appreciate all this information because I have been called to reiki many times before but had felt a certain hesitation. Now I see, in hindsight, that the reason is because of the way it was taught and the way it was practiced was not the way he did it at all. There have been times where I have been zapped by reiki after a session, so much so that I needed a nap. There have been other times where I felt jolted and was ready to dance the night away. Still others when I had a sense that there was no effect whatever, like a sham given by a charlatan. When I received reiki from Michael there was a warming and cooling, a shift in my sense of weight and a very clear threshold was crossed. Afterward I was tired and needed to rest the remainder of the day. Michael said that was normal and to take it easy. He even suggested that I not go diving the next day but to wait for the day after. I'm really glad I met him, I feel like I have a better understanding of reiki.

The next morning I gathered all my things and headed off to Tulemben to learn to SCUBA dive. I had met a guy from England who has over 500 dives who recommended a sweet spot on the far eastern part of the island known for the USAT Liberty wreck. He said that the open water dives would be to the wreck and that I would save a lot of time and money by going there myself rather than having another dive shop transport me there. So I went.

Tulemben is a sleepy little village on the eastern side of the island in the shadow of Mt. Agung. It is very lush and sparsely populated. The village has a few warungs and some bars and a bunch of dive shops. Many of the divers and instructors come from all over Indonesia and other parts of Bali. It makes for interesting company and everyone has their own sense of humor. Since there is a lava bed just below the surface there isnt much farming, the land is rocky and has lush vegetation. It was really clear at night and I was able to star gaze without the light pollution of the bigger towns.

I started my dive instruction at Liberty Dive Resort on Tuesday and by Friday I had my first open water fun dive in the Liberty wreck. The resort is nice and very affordable. My room was large with two double beds and the bathroom was a good size with a walk in shower. There was AC and fan along with a private balcony overlooking the garden. They have a pool, also used for instruction, and the dining area overlooks the sea. It is a lovely place and I recommend it for anyone who wants to dive or snorkel and relax. The town is small so there is no night life but, because I have gadgets, we managed to have a party or two to some music beneath the stars. I met some great folks there, we told stories and laughed. I learned that a fishing village in Vietnam has the best windy season for Kite Boarding? Also learned that Amsterdam has one of the most advanced care system for addiction recovery. I was giddy to learn that there are still amazing parties happening with fantastic music and that the love of dance is still alive and well over in the Netherlands. Travelers are full of useful tips and entertaining stories, it makes the time go fast.

While I was there, there was no internet or any other distractions so I had a lot of time to think. I got really really homesick for a while there. I was planning to just fly home and then down to Belize. I figured I had seen enough and was heart sick for my man and my cat. It would be nice to see Portland for a couple of weeks and then go down to Central America. At one point I was in a SCUBA lesson and I just started to cry. It was really weird, I think it had a lot to do with the reiki treatment and the inability to avoid my innermost emotions. It just all came out. The Bali boys were more than happy to offer their company. I was told this would happen and I think, so far, there has been well over a dozen offers of marriage. Remember polygamy is alive and well so if the boy is over 25 it's pretty likely he has a wife and maybe even a few kids. But, that's ok, because you can just join in... yeah.

Diving is a science and it was a bit mind boggling for me. I am really grateful for the people who have gone before and calculated the dive times and surface intervals because if I didn't know what I was doing, I could very well kill myself by getting distracted at the bottom of the ocean by all the beautiful things. I had so much fun just hovering over a coral bed and watching the fish build their houses and lay eggs and chase each other.

I love how my gear allows me to swim in the best aquarium ever!!! There are these HUGE blue starfish and these GIAGANTIC shell fish who move veeeeeeeery sloooooowly but if you get too close or if there is a sudden change in water current they *bloop* close up, just like that. Fish have really funny personalities, I never would have guessed but, they are really silly. Some are not shy at all, they will swim up to your mask and bump it. Others look really annoyed and once they size you up they go back to chasing each other around the coral. The colors and the stripes reminded me of fashion, especially the coral, it was very gothic and the zippy lines on this one small fish were all very glam it was really entertaining.

The USAT Liberty wreck is really neat. When I first saw it I had a rush of excitement. I looked to my right and there was this sunken ship and to my left was a big drop off where I could see nothing except deep blue and for a moment it was really thrilling and I was almost scared but, then I realized that I know what I am doing and that I am safe. Sometimes it hits me that there are monsters in the ocean and that I am very small and very tasty and it makes me want to run on the water to the shore like in the cartoons. Seeing the wreck was all very Scoobie Doo, it looked like a haunted ship and the sound effects played in my mind and I had to try not to laugh because I didn't want my mask to flood. I swam all around it and inside, the coral and fish there are really happy, they have great little areas to thrive and it makes it all very picturesque.

I received my Open Water SCUBA certification on 20/02/09, exactly three years after I entered AA and started living sober. I got really excited when I realized this coincidence. When I was going through the steps it was suggested to write a list of goals I wanted to accomplish now that I was sober. I was to write every dream or goal I had that I was interested in perusing. Diving was on that list along with travel and cultural exploration. Just three years later, it is a reality. Proof that if one clears the mind, focuses energy, anything is possible. And if I can clear my mind and focus, anybody can do it!

With another goal accomplished it was time to head back to the city. Being on the edge of the world was very nice but, I wanted to go back to civilization. I contacted Bekah and got a recommendation on where to stay. She had a friend who owns a hotel, she had never been there and was feeling weird to suggest it without doing so but, I knew not where to go so I took it. She got me a huge discount and it was much appreciated. I hired a taksi and headed to Kuta, the most touristic place on Bali.

See, Kuta was planned this way from the start. It was developed on Bali's least sacred land to house the din of inequity that is party paradise. It can be likened to Tijuana in that it is the Australian's cheap get away. So you can imagine, crazed Aussies off their heads walking shirtless and barefoot through the streets with a beer in their hand. There are also a fair amount of amazingly beautiful women from around the world. Seriously, I tripped and almost fell staring at this Swedish chick, she looked like a supermodel, no make up, tank top and jeans and an absolute knock out. It was very intimidating, to say the least. The clubs all blare their music as if they can out do each other and the loadies just crawl from bar to bar.

Bekah had invited me to see her favorite band. She had set up an interview with the lead singer for her research so we met for dinner and went to the show. The restaurant we picked was really, really nice. It had an indoor waterfall and a live band with a great singer and the food was delicious. I had a fish steak and Bekah had fish and chips, we both got these enormous coffee thingies that were the best since I left the States. It cost as much as if we had dinner at home too, a splurge for us both. Afterward we went over to the venue to hear the band.

It was smokey and loud so, being the old lady that I am, I went across the street to binge on my guilty pleasure; the internet cafe! Air conditioned, broadband, cheap and easy - my favorite! I spent a good hour and thanks to the show being so loud, I was able to hear it from there. I made my way over there to see a few songs before they finished and was glad I did, they are truely amazing and quite unique, no wonder Bekah likes them so much. You can read all about them in her up coming book about Bali's music scene.

After she finished her interview we went back to my hotel to freshen up and leave our things. I convinced her to go dancing to *gasp* techno music. She dosn't really get techno music at all, which I understand being an ethnomusicologist but, I explained there is more than meets the ear. We went to this swanky multi leveled club where the music was actually pretty good. The crowd left a lot to be desired but it was fun none the less. Bekah was surprised that I can dance the way I do, she was very impressed ;) We worked ourselves into a sweat and decided to head out to see other places.

Bekah's host family forbids her to go to Kuta. This is because of the bombings (don't freak out, mom, everything is OK), there are high religious and racial tensions here in Indonesia and it is a huge social conflict. Bekah being from NC and me having a black boyfriend, we are no stranger to this kind of tension. Here it is much different because all sides see it as a choice that is in direct conflict with their own. Needless to say it is not talked about and not so obvious to the casual tourist but, it is present for every Indonesian every day. She kept laughing because her family would freak out if they knew where she was, she is, after all, a 29 year old woman who hasn't reported her whereabouts since she was about 15, so the notion of being forbidden is really crazy. So because of this, we went into all the silly seedy tourist bars and had a good laugh.

When we were tired of all that we sat on the street to people watch. There was a Japanese guy juggling crystal balls in what seemed to be some sort of meditative trance. He had long dreads and was topless wearing Thai fisherman pants dancing bare foot busking for tips. Bekah was fascinated so we went over and sat near him. He fed off our energy and got really into his art, it was very impressive, he made it look so easy. I had a feeling he would fit perfectly on the playa (Burningman) at sunrise. After he finished, we talked with him and he had indeed been to Burningman! He also spins fire and knows about March Fourth Marching Band. Once we said that Bekah said that she too was a fan and at that moment it felt like a really small world.

I didn't get to bed until 3am that night, the latest I have stayed up since I have been traveling, it was fun! My room was less than satisfactory, to say the least. There were cobwebs everywhere and I realized there were bed bugs as I was awaken by itching all over my legs and a strange feeling in my hands and feet. I was distraught so I called home. I was not happy and I was tired and I was whining - a lot. It's pretty hard for anyone to muster sympathy for me when I am living a dream but I was really upset by the circumstances. I tried to get some more sleep before I would have to move.

In the morning I got my things together and took a shower. I got my towel and dried myself when I felt something sharp and scratchy. A GIANT cockroach the size of my thumb was hiding in my towel and crawled all over my naked body. *shiver* That was it! I was done! No more of this gross budget hotel stuff, I was gonna find a nice place even if I have to spend more than I have been. I just want to relax and enjoy myself.

I called Bekah and told her all about it. She felt really bad and was quite shocked wondering how her friend could let his place go like that. She was afraid I was going to leave Bali because of her and her suggestions! I assured her that, indeed, I would not. I set out to find a place and do some shopping. I went out around Kuta and got some things I needed, got some reflexology and a pedicure and had some candeling done on my ears, my right ear is still blocked from diving. A while later I got a text from Bekah for a great little place in Seminyak.

I went back to the hotel and checked out. I gave the reception a piece of my mind and just as I expected, I got a snicker and a look like "suck it up, princess" which is a phrase they love in Kuta. I caught a taksi to Seminyak and left it behind.

The place is called Raja Gardens and I love it! I have a good sized room with a beautiful bed and a huge bathroom. There is a wall of windows that overlook a garden and a wall of frosted glass between the bathroom and the bedroom, there are glass bricks and it's all very nice. It's just a short walk to the beach and at night, in the garden, I can hear the waves It's more than I have paid the whole time I have been traveling but, now I have a sense that I am on vacation and I can completely understand why people come here and do everything from this part of the island. If I could afford it, I would too.

The beaches here are white sand and there are cute boutiques and restaurants and spas. The resorts are fancy and the scene is all very contemporary. Some people are angered by this but I have to ask; where does Contemporary Asian design exist if not in Asia? And why not for those who can afford to enjoy it? Since it is a planned tourist area it is not taking from anything else and if anything is pumping a good deal of money into the local economy. Things here cost more than elsewhere, there are still budget places but, the western standard costs a lot to create here. Things are not naturally like this in Indonesia, everything is much more laid back. They work very hard to meet that standard and I am happy to pay for it.

My first night here I went to the beach to see the stars and the sea. I sat on the end of the esplanade where the road meets the sand and just enjoyed the breeze. I wondered to myself what was next and thanked g-d for blessing me. Just then I looked up and saw a shooting star. I always take that as a wink from g-d telling me I'm on the right path and to watch for signs because something special is about to come along.

I caught a motor bike taksi to a club where there was a DJ from Ibiza playing on the beach. When we arrived there I was not convinced. The music seemed a bit too fluffy for me and I wasn't in the mood for the drunks and bar girls. I went to the market and got a snack to enjoy on the beach. My friend, Jan, is clever! We found some music that was nice and went to the beach right in front and listened to the music for free. We talked for a couple of hours. He told me about Sumatra, where he is from, and about Lake Toba. I was suddenly very inspired. Again it was late so I wanted to head home and sleep.

I am looking into coming back to Indonesia from Thailand. I want to see Lake Toba, it is the 3rd deepest lake in the world and it sounds like an amazing place. It is why I traveled here, to see these sacred places that are unique to this part of the world. There is an ancient volcano that is said to been the reason for the last ice age. It has a well spring of fresh water pouring out of it creating a waterfall. That waterfalls into a 1500ft deep fresh water lake which falls into several rivers and feeds Sumatra with it's drinking water, fish and hydroelectricity. It just sounds amazing and it is a hop, skip and a jump (ok three planes and a bus) from Thailand and it's pulling on me...

Yesterday Jan took me to Padang Padang and we went to the Monkey Temple to watch the sunset. I got some good pictures and had a lovely time. If you google images for "Bali" pictures of sunsets, it is beyond words how beautiful they are. I enjoy trying to capture them but, really, it just doesn't do it justice.

I'm glad I chose to move around a lot, I feel like I have seen a lot of Bali so far and I have a good idea of what's good and well, what's not so good. Spending a month in a place allows me to face challenges and really get a sense of a place by finding my solutions, most of the time it's in my own heart.

Thanks for keeping up! I'll try to update more now that I have intarwebs again.

Miss you, kiss you, wish you were here!

~B