**Contrast-the relative lightness and darkness of different scene-is a crucial characteristic of any Black and White Photograph. Often you want normal Contrast-a full range of Tones from Black through many shades of gray to pure White. Some scenes require low-contrast, mostly a smooth range of middle grays. Or maybe a high-contrast deep Blacks and brilliant Whites and limited details in between. The contrast of a negative has been judged or set, mostly by the subject itself. he type of film and the way it was developed.
**But you can still adjust the Contrast of the final Print by changing the Contrast grade of paper used. A paper of high-contrast increases the Contrast, a paper of low-contrast decreases it. This helps when printing the problem negative.
**A high-contrast paper increases Contrast for underdevevloped negatives, which are usually flat, and adds sparkle to scenes shot in dull light. A low-contrast paper decreases Contrast for overdeveloped negatives, which are too contrasty, and can soften overly harsh shadows and highlights.
**Papers of graded Contrast range from grades 0 and 1 (low or soft contrast), through grade 2 (normal or medium contrast), grade 3 (often the normal contrast grade chosen for 35mm negatives) and grades 4, 5 and 6 (high or hard contrast). The basic way of changing Contrast in a print is to change the contrast grade of paper.
**How can you tell if your negatives of normal Contrast ? There is an old rule of thumb, lay the negative on the type of a page in a book, if you can read the type through the highlights and if you can see detail in both the shadows and the highlights. This would be considered a normal negative. A normal Black and White negative makes a good print on grade 2 or grade 3 paper.
** I use color film to create my Hand Tinted Black and White Photo Art the Classic way. I avoid the above pitfalls by using color film negative. All color film render colors that cover the color spectrum, their colors are directly related to the Zone system developed by
the Great Ansel Adams. In color film, reds are red, blues are blue, and yellows are yellow. My " 2 Zone Technique " allows me two
manipulate the placement and choice of colors in the final Black and white Print. The colors seem to levitate because I Tone specific areas, the colors are place on shades of gray instead of typical shades of whites. Colored shades of gray creates a mood that color prints can't reproduce.
**This makes my Black and White Photo Art unique in its own way. I choose colors that bring life and make the Print surreal in nature. I try to reveal hidden details and textures unseen in most Color or Black and White Prints. Color film gives me more detail in the shadow areas than any Black and White film on the market. This is not conventional Print making Techniques, but for my purpose I find that Color film is my choice. I have been in the field over 25 years and has bought or used about 5 roll of Black and White film.
**With color film I can create a beautiful color Print or a Hand Toned Black and White Print. I find Color film more flexible and forgiving in the dark room. The Color Prints are my guide in my final Hand Tinted Print. It give me the mood of each scene as it was captured. I can choose to alter the final print or deviate from the norm. I can place colors in areas that I find of interest to enhance my composition, balance, or depth of field. Its very exciting to use this " 2 Zone Technique ". I can take any Color negative and create hundreds of Photo art without any restraints or limitations. The Prints are never the same and are original. I have tried in the past to Hand Tint a Print the same, but each Print becomes snow flake like in nature taking on its on identity. My Black and White Photo Art is never computer aided in any way.