Now with Sharon getting her first taste of real India, we set out for Hampi, another backpacker hot spot known for it’s 42+/- sq kilometers of amazing, but not-so-ancient ruins from the 13th-16th century, lush rice fields, groves of banana and palm trees, and a winding river all set amidst a rolling boulder-stacked landscape similar to that of Vedawoo in southern Wyoming. Other than the hungry touts seeking to snag tourist business, the atmosphere is summed up by rooftop restaurants, stepped vistas overlooking the river, and a tendency for hours of boulder watching. After more than a days worth of ruins we enjoyed a 360 degree view at sunset on Matanga Hill, the most choice peak in the area. As nothing but the peaceful breeze over our faces was felt in an extended moment of silence, Sharon mutters, “I like the weather here.” Not nearly ready to tackle the bustling air of Bangalore, India’s most progressive city, and what I refer to as the “western east”, we meet up with Sharon’s friend Mithune, now living there and willing to give us the official tour. The City of Gardens, as Bangalore is known, with a large central city park (filled with perfect climbing trees), runs off of the caffeine of multiple coffee shops per block. We found it is best experienced through the cuisine, but requires a native to guide you, for victimization by artificially “urbanized” food is rampant. While being a huge fan of Indian food, Sharon and I agree it’s a bit too spicy and heavy for breakfast. Masala tea (chai) is hard to come by there, but we finally filled our craving for carrot halwa (a fine sweet desert). I got my teeth cleaned for about 20 bucks, but curiously right after the their sparkle returned, the dentist asked if I wanted to join her for some abnormally sweet Indian-style coffee. Why not, it’s India. Our Bangalore stay ended with another 360 degree view just in time for an impressive sunset at Nandi Hills, a favorite nature spot of Mithune.

Already burnt from the chaos and air pollution of the cities we headed for the beach in south Kerala to Varkala. FINALLY able to get large pots of spiced chai (about 9 cups for 60 cents) and a proper fruit muesli breakfast we quickly sank into the traveler vibe again atop the west-facing cliffs that overlooked the sea. Filled with hammocks, yoga and reiki on the beach, and ayurveda spas everywhere we knew 2 days wouldn’t be enough time here. Kerala is also home for Kathikali dancers (traditional costumed Indian dance/plays) and we managed to catch a colorful performance in a small, cramped, non-ventilated shed. We got to experience a seasonally unusual rainstorm, and a bit of rumbling serenity on the beach where the bellowing thunder rolled down the cliffside colliding with the crashing waves. All the men in Kerala wear diapers, though there I think the proper spelling is “dhoti.” So "when in Rome"…I went out and bought a couple of diapers for myself, which I must say are quite comfortable...